Road Trip
Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail
A bucket list trip
The list of famous Nova Scotia attractions is long. There’s lobster, for sure. Fiddle music, absolutely. Mind-boggling seaside views, no question. But ask anyone to name one incredible thing about Nova Scotia — whether they have visited the province or not — and they’re likely to say “The Cabot Trail.”
Everybody wants to travel the Cabot Trail. Even if they don’t know why.
So we’ll tell you why. And we’re doing it right now so you have time to plan your visit next summer. Remember, we live here — so we know what’s good, what’s great, and what’s extra-ordinary! Here are some of our “must see’s” and “must do’s.” Consider this the start of your planning, as there are endless things to see and do here — your research will go on!
What is the Cabot Trail?
The Cabot Trail is a 298-kilometer-long mish-mash of roads, paths, trails and stairs that features the breathtaking beauty of oceanside and cliffside perches. It is located on Cape Breton Island, the northern part of Nova Scotia. It weaves through towns and quaint fishing villages, into old-growth forests and along beaches. There are hiking trails, golf courses, inns and hotels and, of course, the best lobster rolls around. The trail makes a loop from Baddeck north to Ingonish, west(ish) to Pleasant Bay, south to Chéticamp, and southeast back to Baddeck. The northern portion passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
A piece of expert advice: Plan to spend five to seven days doing the entire tour. You don’t want to rush this!
Baddeck
The drive typically involves a first stop in Baddeck located in the heart of Cape Breton Island — for a quick overnighter and a few stops to peruse some local offerings. The Highwheeler Cafe is a great stop for a breakfast feast on their summery patio — with lots of fresh pastries (the blueberry raspberry scones are a must) and strong coffee. That’ll start your day right. New to the scene is the lively Freight Shed, a popular and fun spot… and for good reason. The seafood is a step above with so many great items that make choosing tough. But you can’t go wrong, so don’t worry too much about it.
Golf
Cabot Cape Breton has three of Canada’s top-rated courses, with Cabot Links near Inverness becoming a real gem for its top-notch accommodations and food and dining options. It ranks 35 on Golf Digest’s list of the World’s 100 Greatest Courses. This year its sister course, Cabot Cliffs, was ranked top modern international course by Golf Week magazine. Both courses boast stunning ocean-side views unlike anything in the world. As mentioned above, Cape Breton Highland Links is also not to be missed. It was constructed under the guidance of world-renowned designer Stanley Thompson.
Get ready for your first ceilidh…
Pronounced “kay-lee” — this is a famous kitchen party featuring Celtic music, lots of sing-a-longs and even more dancing. Keep an eye out for signs and posters or… ask the locals! Often there are square dance workshops open to everyone. Fun fact: It’s purported that Cape Breton has the most fiddlers per capita than any other global destination.
Ingonish
If you’re heading on to Ingonish — and why wouldn’t you? — perhaps for golf at the famed Cape Breton Highland Links, locals will tell you not to miss a stop for a short rest and refuel at Wreck Cove General Store. Bring your appetite for fresh lobster sandwiches. (Insider tip from MTTM’s Andy Sawler: “As a native Nova Scotian I must say that they are perhaps the tastiest I’ve experienced.”) For bonus points, pack a few extras in your cooler for the beach or golf course later in the day.
Charming accommodations abound in Ingonish: you might try Lantern Hill & Hollow or Ingonish Chalets depending on your crew. Add Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café to your must-visit list — staying with the lobster theme, their breakfast lobster sandwiches are pure perfection.
Pubs and good eats
Great comfort and seafood abound, as well as fine dining and everything in between. You may have guessed that pubs abound on Cape Breton, and one of the best of the best is The Red Shoe in the hamlet of Mabou. It’s owned by the musical group the Rankin Sisters — Heather, Cookie and Raylene — along with their eldest sister Genevieve Fakoory. Do book ahead as many acts will sell out way ahead of time! And don’t miss their famous Mabou Seafood Chowder.
Another favorite of ours is the Woodroad Restaurant just 15minutes north of Inverness on the west coast of the island. A gem for sure!
Just about every town, hamlet and village on the loop will have some sort of incredible pub or eatery, so don’t be shy about exploring. (You can’t find out everything on the Internet, right?) Ask the locals!
Parks and attractions
The waters of the Northumberland (on the northwest side of the island) provide warm waters and sandy beaches, with idyllic parks, trails, look-offs and nature (minus the crowds). Even on a “busy” summer weekend there is room to roam. It’s a quiet and peaceful place with nature taking centre stage — be sure to visit Ingonish Beach and take in its dark starry skies, minimal crowds and gorgeous views. The northern part of the trail — about one-third of the entire circuit — cuts through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Need we point out that it features stunning vistas and ocean views?
